O Little Town of Bethlehem: Touring Palestinian Territories
With all this talk about air raids in Palestine and rockets in Israel makes you think it must be pure chaos. It’s far from the truth. The people I’ve met are use to the rockets coming from Gaza into southern Israel and haven’t been really concerned until as of late, but the latest special rockets with targets in Tel Aviv and Jerusalem bring in a whole new dynamic. That’s serious when random rockets can reach Jerusalem and Tel Aviv! I probably won’t be taking my family to Jerusalem for a couple of years, but it is one of my favorite cities in the whole world. I love hearing the stories in church and thinking about the places I’ve been. I’ll tell you more about Bethlehem as well. There’s nothing like it. Seeing the struggle in person is unreal. Tours can be organized to go to areas in the West Bank from Jerusalem. My first encounter with Palestinians was in Jordan, a real must in the middle east and required on your collection of the 7 wonders of the world to see Petra the amazing place made famous by Indiana Jones. Later I met a friend of a friend in Qatar who took me around Doha and discovered this national Judo champ was Palestinian.
Also make sure to pull out a map of the middle east. There’s still a big difference between the West Bank and Gaza. Here are some clips from the BBC maps that show the complication.
The two governments (3 if you count Hamas, but lets focus on the West Bank) while attempting to be united are still not there. I’ve even had friends who have visited Gaza while rockets were going off, and felt unaffected. It’s wild.
I’ve visited Israel and the West Bank three different times, and outside of security and check points… I really enjoyed my time. I do have friends in the technical community in the Israel Office/SharePoint User Group and in Palestine SharePoint Users Group. In fact I randomly came across SharePoint training on the streets of Bethlehem! If you don’t know what SharePoint is, don’t worry. For me it’s what gets me around the world. It’s the technology that I speak about and cover on my technical blog at http://sharepointjoel.com
On your holiday you must go to the dead sea. Believe me, the mud that is shipped all over the world is amazing. You must cover yourself from head to toe and then take a dip. The worlds lowest bar in the world (Kalia –418 meters) is next to the dead sea. There are rumors that Sodom and Gomorrah from the Old Testament is the same location as the dead sea. Avoid your eyes and ears from the salt water, but do lay back and float. It’s amazing. I’ve tried it in the Salt Lake in Utah, and it works, but the salt content isn’t as dense and it sure stinks in Utah because of the brine.
Must see places in Palestine
1. Bethlehem – Church of the Nativity (in the West Bank)
O little town of Bethlehem. I sing about it every Christmas season. You may too. I will now never have a Christmas come and go where I won’t be thinking about the little town and what I experienced. There are pilgrims that visit all the time. I’m sure the numbers will be less this season than last, but it should be bucket list item for all Christians if not Muslims and Jews as well.
Go through a small opening, then venture through some amazing columns then wind yourself behind the alter and back under and down some stairs to a small little area where you’ll find a star. This star marks the place where the Christ child was born.
Jesus is special to both the Christians, Muslims, and Jews. So while he may not be the Son of God to all faiths, you can have conversations about Jesus in all circles and they know where he was supposedly born. Many assume that Palestine is nearly all Muslims. This is also not the case. There are a lot of Palestinian Christians and many Israelis that may or may not be Jews referred to as settlers, and Bedouins that may or may not be Muslim.
2. The Tomb of the Patriarchs and Mosque in Hebron (in the West Bank)
The burial place for Abraham, Sariah, Isaac, Rebeccah, Jacob (Israel) and Leah. Built by King Herod King of Judea about 2000 years ago. Sacred to Christians, Jews, and Muslims. 2nd holiest site for Jews after the Western Wall.
Another fascinating part of Hebron is the fact it’s divided in two. As is the Tomb and caves. You’ll find 10 days where the Jews have the whole thing, and that’s the day we happened to have been visiting, so we didn’t get inside, but we did get to experience what it was like peering in from the Palestinian side into the Jewish settlement side.
3. Dome of the Rock – Jerusalem and nearby Al-Aqsa mosque (silver dome)
The Dome of the Rock is located at the visual center of a platform known as the Temple Mount. For Muslims this was where Muhammad’s night journey took place. Many believe it was the site of the Solomons Temple. In 2006, the Temple Mount was reopened to non-Muslim visitors between the hours of 7:30–11:30 am and 1:30–2:30 pm during summer and 7:30–10:30 am and 1:30–2:30 pm during winter. Non-Muslims are prohibited from entering after 2:30 pm and may not enter on Fridays, Saturdays, or Muslim holidays. In the few times I’ve tried to visit, I keep missing the cutoff. You really do have to plan ahead for this one. I’ve seen the guards do a quick test to determine the faith of Muslim believers in off hours. The nearby Al Aqsa mosque is believed to be the location where Muhammad ascended to heaven.
Note: Many Orthodox rabbis regard entry to the compound to be a violation of Jewish law. This is based on the belief that since the time the Temple was destroyed during the siege of Jerusalem in 70 CE, the precise location of the Holy of Holies, the sanctuary entered only by the High Priest, is not known. Hence a restriction applies to the entire compound. I’ve heard religious Jews should not plan on visiting for this or other reasons.
Jews have traditionally regarded the location of the stone as the holiest spot on Earth, the site of the Holy of Holies during the Temple Period. According to Jewish tradition, the stone is the site where Abraham prepared to sacrifice his son Isaac; Muslims believe it was Ishmael, not Isaac, who was to be sacrificed.
4. Arafat’s Tomb in Ramallah
Yasser Arafat who for years represented the Palestinian Liberation Organization for years and years is buried in this tomb.
Abbas’s palace or equivalent to the white house is nearby
Growing up and seeing Arafat on the television is still fascinating. Now there’s a mystery surrounding his death. Was he poisoned? He body is going to be Exhumed on November 26th to determine the cause of death according to China Daily News and Aljazeera. Also just outside where the compound was you’ll find the flags of the nations that recognize Palestine as a nation.
While the UN doesn’t yet officially recognize it, UNESCO has joined the ranks, and has sacrificed US support as a result. It will be fascinating to watch to see if there’s a two state solution in the works.
5. Jericho and the Mount of Temptation
It’s a beautiful view, and there is even a gondola ride. This is the supposed place where Christ was tempted by Satan and told to jump and have the angels save him. Great views, and old monasteries. We walked it on a beautiful night followed by some gelato. As I walked the roads of Jericho, I thought of my Sunday school stories of Joshua and marching around the city. “Choose ye this day whom ye will serve, but as for me in my house, we will serve the Lord…” this is still a very powerful statement and one I use with my kids.
Getting from place to place between Israel and Palestine, and even getting to places like Bethlehem require passing through checkpoints that become bottlenecks. As well, large walls divide the settlers from the Palestinian people. These walls fashioned after the ones formerly in Berlin are huge, and tower above the people. It does restrict travel and movement for sure.
There are some political prisoners that are often touted in political prisoner exchanges.
I was pointed to this map of Israel and Palestine while in Bethlehem. While controversial it shows a perspective of the Palestinian people and their concerns of over land. It’s not my point to say who’s right or who’s wrong. Visit Israel and Palestine. You’ll get both perspectives. The people, the governing, depending on political alignment, and depending on where the person lives and the color of their card all may tell you different stories. Keep an open mind.
Below: Damascus gate is near the Garden tomb, another of my favorites and one that has a very peaceful spirit. Watch the hours… it’s closed on Sunday and closed for lunch and not open late. Be sure to get some awesome food, and enjoy the Muslim quarter in East Jerusalem, considered the capital of Palestine while.
In a traditional Palestinian scarf with some traditional Muslim women with head scarves. Just because they wear the scarf does not mean they are Muslim though. Some women in Palestine will wear it for fashion. As well, some Muslim women may decide not to wear it.
Palestinian food is good food. They love their savory meats, stewed veggies, mezze, mixed grills and deserts. Lots of lamb, goat, but hold the pork. No pork for Muslims or Jews.
Let me leave you with a final caution. The situation between Israel and Palestine is complex and goes back for many generations, not just since 1967. I don’t pretend to understand the full complexity of it, but I do appreciate the desires of the people on both sides to have freedom and peace. I appreciate the desire of a two state solution, and even the one state solution with full citizenship, but there are people on both sides that aren’t happy with anything on the table. It’s incredible to me that there really isn’t anything that will make the radicals on either side happy without horrible repercussions.
While I posted this blog with the intention of showing those that travel that there are some really interesting places to visit, I hope as well that those that visit will get to know the amazing people that have had some really rough times and a very bad rap.
I also hope the Israeli security will give me a break and allow me to visit every once in a while without interrogating me for 3+ hours. By the way if you are visiting Palestine, make sure you focus on your trip in Jerusalem and Bethlehem, but any time spent in the west bank be prepared for a few hours in interrogation. You’ll likely end up getting my treatment involving many trips through the scanners and someone going through all your socks and underwear with their wand. So far I’ve never missed a flight. Ironically the interrogation is always on the way out.
Israeli’s, don’t be offended by this post. I love you guys too. Tel Aviv is amazing, great beaches, love the Golan heights and I’m happy to attend a bar-mitzvah any time!